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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.